CRUDITÉS WITH AIOLI
This is one of my favourite starters – small helpings of very crisp vegetables with a good garlicky homemade mayonnaise. It fulfils all my criteria for a first course: plates of crudités look tempting, taste delicious and provided the helpings are small, not too filling. Better still, it’s actually good for you – so you can feel very virtuous instead of feeling pangs of guilt!
Another great plus, children, I’ve discovered love crudités. They even love aioli provided they don’t hear some grown up saying how much they dislike garlic, and you can feel happy to see your children polishing off plates of raw vegetables for supper, really quick to prepare and bursting with vitamins and minerals.
Crudités can be a perfect first course for winter or summer, but to be really delicious one must choose very crisp and fresh organic vegetables. Cut the vegetables into bite-sized bits so they can be picked up easily. No need for cutlery because they are usually eaten with fingers. The Italian version of crudités is called pinzimino, serve a bowl of the very best extra virgin olive oil you can find instead of the aioli.
Use as many of the following vegetables as are in season:
tomatoes quartered, or whole with the calyx on if they are freshly picked
purple sprouting broccoli, broken (not cut) into florettes
calabrese (green sprouting broccoli), broken into florettes
cauliflower, broken into florettes
French beans or mange tout
fresh asparagus
baby carrots, or larger carrots cut into 5cm sticks
cucumber, cut into 5cm sticks
courgette blossom
tiny spring onions, trimmed
red cabbage, cut into strips
celery, cut into 5cm sticks
chicory and leaves
radicchio
fennel, thinly sliced
red or yellow pepper, cut into 5cm strips, seeds removed
very fresh Brussels sprouts, cut into halves or quarters
whole radishes, with green tops left on
parsley, finely chopped
thyme, finely chopped
chives, finely chopped
sprigs of watercress
For the aioli
2 organic egg yolks, or at least free range
¼ teaspoon salt
pinch of English mustard or ¼ teaspoon French mustard
1–4 garlic cloves, depending on size
1 dessertspoon white wine vinegar
250ml grapeseed, sunflower or olive oil or a mixture – I use 150ml arachide oil and 75ml extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley
Put the egg yolks into a Pyrex bowl with the mustard, garlic, salt and white wine vinegar (save the whites to make meringues). Put the oil into a measure. Take a whisk in one hand and the oil in the other and drip the oil onto the egg yolks, drop by drop whisking at the same time. Within a minute you will notice that the mixture is beginning to thicken. When this happens you can add the oil a little faster, but don’t get too cheeky or it will suddenly curdle because the egg yolks can only absorb the oil at a certain pace. Taste and add a little more seasoning and vinegar if necessary.
If the mayonnaise curdles it will suddenly become quite thin, and if left sitting the oil will start to float to the top of the sauce. If this happens you can quite easily rectify the situation by putting another egg yolk or 1–2 tablespoons of boiling water into a clean bowl, then whisk in the curdled mayonnaise, a half teaspoon at a time until it re-emulsifies. Add the chopped parsley and season to taste.
A typical plate of crudités might include the following: a baby carrot or 4 sticks of carrot, 2 leaves of chicory or radicchio, 2 sticks of cucumber, 1 whole radish with a little green leaf left on, 1 tiny tomato or 2 quarters, 1 Brussels sprout cut in quarters, sprouting broccoli or romanesco florets, a sprig of watercress and a little pile of chopped fresh herbs.
Wash and prepare the vegetables. Arrange on individual white side plates in contrasting colours, with a little blob or bowl of aioli in the centre.
Alternatively, do a large dish or basket for the centre of the table. Arrange little mounds of each vegetable in contrasting colours. Put a bowl of aioli in the centre, guests can help themselves.
Instead of serving the aioli in a bowl one could make an edible container by cutting a slice off the top of a tomato and hollowing out the seeds. Alternatively, cut a 4cm round of cucumber and hollow out the centre with a melon baller or a teaspoon. Then fill or pipe the aioli into the tomato or cucumber. Arrange the centre of the plate of crudités.
V Suitable for vegetarians. For a vegan version substitute olive oil for the aioli, as in pinzimino.
This recipe is from Simply Delicious by Darina Allen